4.5 out of 5 stars
The publisher provided a copy of this, free of charge, in return for an honest review.
In 1991, the former USSR imploded. The Cold War and the chilling prospect of mutually assured destruction vanished. Almost all the world collectively breathed a sigh of relief.
The fourteen states that had been under the umbrella of the Soviet state suddenly were on their own. As geopolitical events go, it was pretty big, and for the countries that gained their independence at that time, it was enormous.
Thirty-five years later, and the world has changed again. The KGB officer, Putin, who once drove taxis to make ends meet, now has Russia in an iron grip. Some of the states that came out of the USSR have stumbled into democracy, and others have maintained authoritarian rule. Putin thought that the collapse of the USSR was “worst geopolitical catastrophe of the 20th century,” and has begun the process of bringing these wayward states back into the fold of Mother Russia, beginning with Ukraine.
Barnes starts the journey in Russia, and the first country after that is Armenia. It took a while to journey from an authoritarian state to a slightly shonky democracy. They have not had a peaceful transition, either, having had battles with their neighbours, Azerbaijan, some of which they have won and some of which they have lost. It seems settled now, though. The people Barnes meets are warm and generous, even thought have suffered as their country transitioned from Soviet satellite to the present day. He gets thoroughly beaten at chess whilst there and drinks far more than is healthy for his liver.
In Azerbaijan, he arrives as the Formula 1 circus is in town. It is simultaneously a palaver and good for his soul. To have the race in the country is not cheap, and the repayment of this ‘investment’ is a long time. But Azerbaijan is an oil state and authoritarian to boot, so they do not really care what the population thinks.
His comparison of Azerbaijan taxi drivers is very accurate and also very amusing, but he recommends taking the bus from the airport to the capital. The Aliyev family have held onto power for years, and in the last election, by some kind of miracle, ‘won’ with 76% of the vote. I find it amazing how these things work sometimes…
Even though the oil revenues should have made the country prosperous, the fundamentally corrupt administration makes sure this doesn’t happen. The poverty he sees as he travels on a very swish Swiss train is very much in your face.
Georgia is about the same size as Scotland. It has a range of high mountains, and as Barnes points out, much better weather… It is thronging with visitors there for the sunshine. The climate is ideal for vines, and there is evidence of winemaking that can be dated back 8000 years.
Georgia’s transition from Soviet state to self-governing country was not entirely smooth, but the bloodless Rose Revolution helped with that, much to the consternation of the Kremlin. They want to join the EU and are very much concerned about Russian ambitions as they watch the ongoing conflict in Ukraine. It is a reminder of their own clashes with Russia in the past.
There is also the long shadow of Stalin that hangs over the country. He was a monster of a dictator in so many ways, and yet some still hold him in awe, and even believe that a similar strong-armed leader would benefit the country even now.
It is staggering just how big Kazakhstan is. It has an area larger than Western Europe, and it is sparsely populated; on the steppe, there is virtually nothing there, bar the odd horse. One of the gulags made by the Soviets for dispatching people they considered to be trouble was only slightly smaller than Wales!!
They have been a nomadic people for a long time, moving across the steppe and using resources at a place before moving on again. This lifestyle has changed with the influx of Russian and other European people, and cities have now been built. The state is very oil-rich, and those revenues paid for those cities and lots of monuments. They do like their monuments…
After the vastness of Kazakhstan, Kyrgyzstan feels tiny. It became independent in 1991 and has managed to stay fairly democratic since. Every time the politicians lurch towards authoritarianism, the people have a revolution to remove them. It obviously works as they have had three so far, and from what Barnes can ascertain, there may be another fairly soon.
Even though the Soviets controlled the country and created the borders, their influence wasn’t that strong. It still has an authentic feel about it, and Barnes thinks that the mountains there are stunning.
Uzbekistan is an Islamic state and, given its problematic neighbours, is fairly well defended. This double landlocked country has had a long and troubled history. It still has a traditional culture, or as one of the people that Barnes knows, describes it as backwards. The city of Tashkent is a little more progressive, though.
He takes a high-speed train to Samarkand. This city was made wealthy and famous by a guy called Timur. He was a warrior, and he and his armies killed a lot of people in their time, so much so that they used to pile the skulls of their enemies up really high.
Tajikistan is another tiny state with a megalomaniac as a political leader. It is a poor country too, and the poverty runs deep there. Barnes stays with the family of someone he had met in China. He drinks a lot of what they call ‘white tea’ and wakes the following morning with a horrendous hangover…
Turkmenistan is an amalgamation of a lot of the other countries that Barnes has passed through, with the added bonus of being even more of a regressive police state than some of the others. Great…
It took a while to get a visa to visit, not helped by a global pandemic and the regime not being particularly helpful in assisting him. He must have the patience of a saint, as he did get there in the end and didn’t give up. Whilst there, he has to be accompanied by an official guide. They have a fixed itinerary, and he has almost no connection to the outside world other than through email. Oh, the joys of living under a dictator…
He is partnered with a French guy, who has supposedly visited 180 countries and is still only in his 30s! Somehow, Barnes does manage to wangle some free time away from his guide, but not much. He does take away a strong impression of the country, though.
Belarus was described by one guy that Barnes meets as being full of thugs and yokels. He doesn’t find this, but it is another state that has had the dubious pleasure of living under a dictator. For a police state, there is a refreshing lack of uniformed officers around, which suggests a low crime country, or that most police are in plain clothes. There are rules of what you can and can’t say in the country, so I am guessing it is the latter. It still has very close ties to Russia still and of all the countries that he has visited so far in the book, it feels the most Soviet like.
Up until now, every country has had a chapter each. For Estonia, Latvia and Lithuania, though, Barnes has included them all in one chapter together. It is a little disappointing, but I do kind of get why, too. They have all followed a similar path: joining the EU and NATO, loathing Russia in its present form and having a very smooth transition to democracy. They are all even less corrupt than the UK, a fact that I am not that unsurprised about, really.
The last book I read on Moldova was Tony Hawks, Playing the Moldavians at Tennis. It was very amusing, but I didn’t really learn that much about the country or the people. It is a landlocked country stuck between Russia and Ukraine, which is not the best place to be. Thankfully, Barnes is a little more expansive on his travels there, so I did get more of a feel for the country.
They have been arguing for ages whether they speak Moldavian or Romanian there. It changes like the wind, but the funny thing is, they are both exactly the same language! On top of that, there is this thin strip of land, called Transnistria, between Moldova and Ukraine, that declared independence when the USSR collapsed. Mad eh?
He reserves his final chapter in the book for Ukraine. The state is currently at war with Russia as Putin tries to bring the former Soviet states back under his iron rule. It is a conflict that has been going on for five years as I write this, and Ukraine is not rolling over in submission, and is punching back very hard with European support. Sadly, no one can rely on America anymore.
I thought that this was a fascinating trip around the old Soviet bloc. Barnes does a good job of highlighting the contrasts between the countries that have embraced their new freedoms and democracy and those that are still stuck under the control of a dictator. I really liked his writing style; he is curious, keenly observant, self-deprecating and often amusing in the book. I thought it was well worth reading, and if you have any interest in Russian history and current geopolitics, then give it a go.













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