3.5 out of 5 stars
The publisher provided a copy of this, free of charge, in return for an honest review.
Standing alongside a 6-foot-high marker post with Tarddiad Afon Hafren (Source of the Severn) is the beginning of Chave’s journey along the course of this river. The Hafren, or as I knew it before this book, the Severn, is the longest mainland river in the British Isles, looping 220 miles in a huge semicircle. For the source of this river, she and her son are standing next to, 600m up a Welsh hillside. It isn’t a single spring pouring out crystal clear water, rather it is a series of pools and bogs where water has accumulated prior to its journey to the sea.
In the town of Llanidloes, the Hafren enters as a stream. It is swollen by tributaries and other sources, such as rain, and leaves the town as a river. On trying to find some of these tributaries, she comes across a herd of cows. Rightly so, she is wary of them, and after a short while, they lose interest in her. Whilst there, she takes time to explore the poets of the area and to sit by the river and unwind.
The river passes through Newtown, home of Laura Ashley. I have never really been into chintz, so they were never on my radar for home furnishings, but she was really farsighted and progressive in her business.
As the river moves further on through the countryside, places to cross without a bridge become harder to find. One place that does allow this is Rhyd Chwima. It has been a well-defended strategic place since before the Romans. And it is tidal, which is something that I couldn’t quite believe that the effects of the tide extend this far up the river. But thinking about it, the amount of water that gets pushed up the estuary when the tide comes in is going to have an effect far upstream.
As the Hafren reaches Shrewsbury, it begins to meander, the long, slow bends that lots of rivers form and the flow through a landscape. They pass through a town where the river has recently broken its banks and flooded. There are men all over the place clearing up the mess, and it is a timely reminder that climate change can and will affect people everywhere.
As they travel further downstream, they are reminded that the mind needs to meander and wander, too. The modern headlong rush from A to B that society demands nowadays is really not good for us.
Ironbridge is a reminder that this is where the Industrial Revolution started. And the point where climate change went from neutral to first gear.
As water companies that have their eye on profits and dividends for shareholders, pollute and degrade the environment, grassroots organisations and individuals are seeking to push back. This is a battle that hasn’t been won yet, but there is slow progress in the right direction.
Generally, I am not a fan of the aristocracy. However, when they even realise that the current policies are killing us slowly and take notice, I reluctantly have to give them a little credit. The heir to an estate that Chave talks to seems to have the urgency of the changes that he (and we) need to make. I hope that his actions and results can influence others with shockingly large land holdings.
Returning to the place where her mother taught at, brings the memories flooding in, especially when she heads back to the school to see how it is doing at the moment. It has a strong Welsh identity, and Chave reminds us that the Welsh language was only given equal status in 1993, 457 years after Henry VIII banned the language from public life.
The human way (and very much British way) is to control nature. All well and good, but with all these things, there can often be lots of unintended consequences. Straightening a river to aid navigation can cause severe flooding downstream. Chave visits the place where they are restoring the meanders. They are calling it re-wriggling, which is a delightful name.
If you spend any time alongside this river, then one of the sights that you really should see is the Severn Bore. Chave makes this one of the last things that she does on her journey.
I liked this book. It is a good companion volume to Shaping the Wild by David Elias, The Long Unwinding Road by Marc P. Jones and Seascapes and Return to My Trees by Matthew Yeomans, which I have read in the past year or so. Chave has managed to get the balance right between travel writing and history. The history adds context and depth, without becoming too dominant. I liked her conversational writing style, too, attentive without being too overbearing. This book is definitely worth reading if you have a soft spot for Wales.













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